Bedfordshire – an old map by John Speed

John Speed added a notes to the rear (the verso) of his old maps, Below is a translation into modern English which makes an interesting historical snapshot of BEDFORDSHIRE in the 1600’s  The Description of BEDFORD-SHIRE (CHAPTER XXI in the atlas.) (1) Bedford-shire, located in the southeast of this island, is a plain and open (champion) country. It is bordered: On the north by Huntington-shire  On the east by Cambridge and Hertford shires On the south by Hertford and Buckingham-shires  On the west by Buckingham and Northampton-shires (2) The shape of the county is somewhat oval and not very large: from Tilbrook in the north to Studham in the south is about 20 English miles; and from Turvey in the west to Hatley Cocking in the east, it’s about 14 miles — making the circumference roughly 70 miles. (3) The air is temperate, and the soil bountiful — especially in the north, where the River Ouse flows through many winding paths. The south is more barren and produces less, but it still yields good barley, which isn’t easily surpassed elsewhere. Generally, this county is fertile and fruitful, though some places are sprinkled with pasture and woods. (4) The ancient inhabitants, known to the Romans, that lived in this shire were part of the Cattieuchlani, a strong and warlike tribe. Later they came under Roman control when Caesar brought Britain into a Roman province. His legions stationed at Salena and Magintum — now Sandy and Dunstable, notable Roman sites in the county. Afterwards, when the Saxons sought to reclaim the land, they took it from the Britons under Cuthwulf, a West-Saxon leader, around the year 572, and the Mercians later held it as part of their kingdom. (5) In the year 1399, during the wars between the Princes of Lancaster and York, the River Ouse near Newport Pagnell suddenly dried up and wouldn’t flow further — revealing the very depth of its channel. Afterward, it returned as strongly as ever, which was seen as a sign of future political upheaval. (6) The county suffered heavily during the Danish invasions. The Danes occupied the area. During King Stephen’s reign, the town and castle were seized by Empress Maud, and much blood was shed. In King John’s time, the people rebelled, and later King Henry III destroyed the castle entirely. (7) The town of Bedford, the county capital, was once called Lettidur by the Britains and Bedford by the Saxons. It is the most important town in the county, named after the River Ouse and pleasantly located. A stone bridge crosses the river in the middle of town. There are two gates to lock it, which could stop traffic in times of trouble. Notable places include: St. Leonard’s Hospital for Lazars Churches of St. John and St. Mary The town’s parish churches: St. Cuthbert, St. Peter, St. Loyes, Allhallows, and Cardinal’s Abbey Former Chapel of King Offa, where his body was supposedly buried after being swept away by the river. A piece of lead (said to be his tomb) was once found, though others say it was not his. (8) Dunstable has a tale of a robber named Dun, punished by King Henry I, but it is more likely that it was a Roman town, as it had Roman legions. A nearby village is still called Maiden-mongery, showing the Roman influence. (9) Important castles in the shire include: Woodhill, Eaton. Tempsford and Ampthill Ampthill was once held by the Crown, and many relics and devotions were offered there. These were destroyed during King Henry VIII’s reign when many shrines were demolished. (10) Geography: The town of Bedford lies 52 degrees and 30 minutes north latitude, and about 16 minutes west of the Prime Meridian. (11) Notable noble families bear the titles of Dukes and Earls. The shire is divided into nine Hundreds (districts), with seven Market Towns and 156 parish churches.

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Bedfordshire Place Names Ampthill Arlesey Aspley Guise Astwick Barford, Great Barford, Little Barton-Le-Clay Battlesden Bedford Biddenham Biggleswade Billington Blunham Bromham Caddington Campton Cardington Carlton & Chellington Chalgrave Clapham Clifton Clophill Colmworth Cockayne Hatley Cople Cranfield Dean Dunstable Dunton Eaton Bray Eaton Socon Edworth Eggington Elstow Eversholt Everton Eyeworth Felmersham Flitton Flitwick Goldington Gravenhurst Harlington Harrold Haynes Heath & Reach Henlow Higham Gobion Hockliffe Houghton Conquest Houghton Regis Hulcote Husborne Crawley Kempston Kensworth Keysoe Knotting Langford Leighton Buzzard Lidlington Luton Marston Moretaine Maulden Melchbourne Meppershall Millbrook Milton Bryan Milton Ernest Northill Oakley Odell Old Warden Pavenham Pertenhall Podington Potsgrove Potton Pulloxhill Ravensden Renhold Ridgmont Riseley Roxton Salford Sandy Sharnbrook Shefford Shelton Shillington Souldrop Southill Stagsden Stanbridge Staploe Staughton, Little Steppingley Stevington Stondon, Upper Stotfold Streatley Studham Sundon Sutton Swineshead Tempsford Thurleigh Tilsworth Tingrith Toddington Totternhoe Turvey Westoning Whipsnade Wilden Willington Wilshamstead Woburn Wootton Wrestlingworth Wymington Yielden Aley Green Apsley End Backnoe End Basmead Manor Batts Ford Beadlow Beckerings Park Beeston Beeston Green Beggary Bell End Bidwell Great Billington Lower Billington Birchmoor Biscot Black Tom Bolnoe Boot End Bott End Boughton End Bourne End Bramingham Breach Broad Green Brickhill Bridge End Brook End Brook End Green Broom Budna Bury End Bury Park Bushmead Cainhoe Lower Caldecote Upper Caldecote California Caulcott Causeway End Chadwell End Chalton Channels End Chapel End Chaul End Chawston Chicksands Chiltern Green Church End Clapham Folly Clapham Green Clipstone Coffle End Colesden Colworth Cotton End Crawley Crawley Green Cross End Crosshall Deadmans Cross Denel End Dilwick Duck End Ducksworth Duloe East End Eastcotts Eaton Ford Eaton Green Elms Farm Elvedon Etonbury Faldo Fancott Felmersham Hardwick Fenlake Flexmore End Folly Gastlings Girtford Goldington Highfields Gossards Green Goswell End Greathampstead Green End Greenfield Grovebury Hall End Hanscombe End Hardwick End Harlington Woodend Harrowden Hart Hill Hatch Hatch End Heath Herrings Green High Town Higher Berry End Higher Rads End Hillfoot End Hills End Hinwick Holme Holwellbury Honeydon Houchens End Upper Houghton Regis How End Humbershoe East Hyde West Hyde Ickwell Ickwell Green Ion Ireland Keeley Green Keeley Lane Kempston Church End Kempston Hardwick Kempston West End Keysoe Row Kitchen End Knotting Green Langford End Leagrave Lewsey Limbersey Limbury Little End Littleworth Lower Bury End Lower East End Lower End Lower Rads End Luton Hoo Marsh Farm Mavourn Middle End Millow Mogerhanger Moor End Mowsbury Nares Gladley New Town Newnham Newmill End Newton North End Northwood End Little Odell Park End Park Town Pegsdon Pepperstock Potter’S End Pudde Hill Queens Park Radwell Ramridge End Reach Risinghoe Roothams Green Round Green Rowney Runley Rushmere Salford Ford Salph End Scald End Seddington Segenhoe Sevick End Sewell Sharpenhoe Sheep Lane Shefford Hardwick Shirdon Shortstown Silsoe Silver End Slip End Someries Southcott Stagsden West End Stanbridgeford Stanford Upper Staploe Stockwood Lower Stondon Stopsley Stotfold Green Stratford Stratton Upper Sundon Tags End Tartlett End Tebworth Tetworth The City The Creakers The Green The Hassells Thistley Green Thorn Thorncote Thrales End Thrup End Tilwick Tithe Farm Top End Tyrells End Up End Upbury Upper East End Upton End Valance End Vicarage Green Wadlow Wakes End Warden Hill Warden Street Wardhedges Water End West End Westoning Woodend Wharley End Whitnoe Wick End Wickey Wingfield Witts End Wood End Woodmer End Wootton Bourne End Wootton Broadmead Wootton Green Wootton Pillinge Workhouse End Worthy End Wrest Park Wyboston