Somerset – an old map by John Speed

Historical Background

John Speed’s old map of Somerset gives Bath an unusually generous share of the composition. Its town plan includes separate illustrations of the baths, while the main county map stretches from the hills around Exmoor to the dense network of settlements and waterways farther east.

Map Details

• Original title: Somerset-shire described, and into hundreds divided, with the plott of the famous and most wholsom waters and citie of the Bathe
• Mapmaker: John Speed
• Dates: 1610, engraved beside the scale; first atlas publication 1611
• Publisher and edition: The reproduced image carries the later Thomas Bassett and Richard Chiswell imprint, London, associated with the 1676 edition.
• Source atlas: The Theatre of the Empire of Great Britaine
• Area shown: Historic Somerset, with a detailed county-town plan

Bath before its Georgian expansion

The inset labelled Bathe shows the town within its walls, with streets, gates and buildings carefully distinguished. A lettered key helps identify individual places. Small adjoining illustrations of the King’s Bath and other baths explain why Speed gave the city such prominence. This is Bath well before the later Georgian terraces that now shape its familiar image.

The Bristol Channel and Somerset’s landscape

Ships appear in the patterned water, with Flat Holme and Steep Holme labelled offshore. Inland, the Mendip hills, rivers and marshes are set among a dense spread of villages. Wells, Glastonbury, Taunton and Somerton can be found within the network of named hundreds. The differing settlement symbols and pictorial hills make the county enjoyable to read closely.

Heraldry and historic boundaries

A row of shields along the lower border records figures associated with Somerset, while the royal arms occupy the upper part of the map. The county outline belongs to Speed’s historical geography, not today’s administrative divisions. Old spellings and the engraved treatment of rivers, woods and parks preserve the distinctive appearance of the original.

A fine art print supplied unframed, with the original map’s warm tones and engraved detail preserved.

John Speed’s account of Somerset

Somersetshire is a rich and spacious county, bordered by the Severn Sea to the north, Devon and Dorset to the south, Devonshire to the west, and Wiltshire and Gloucestershire to the east and northeast. It took its name from the town of Somerton (once the chief town in the shire), which is why the ancient historian Asserius called this county “Somertunensis,” or Somersetshire.

1. The northern part is large and extends in length from Brackley near Frome Selwood, eastward to Oare in the west, about 55 miles. From Porlock Point in the north to Chard in the south, it’s just over 40 miles. The total circumference is about 204 miles.

2. The air is mild and pleasant, and during summer, the climate is so temperate that some have thought the name “Somerset” comes from the nature of its climate—meaning it is always like summer. When the season changes to fall, it becomes even more pleasant and milder, and when it’s winter, it borrows a spring-like name, being full of west winds, fog, and moisture. It is often so wet that locals can hardly travel due to constant rainfall.

3. Despite this, the soil is fertile and produces much grain, especially barley. The land is adorned with estates, pleasant meadows, and fine buildings, which make it a great place to live. There’s a saying:
   “What is worst for the rider is best for the adder,” meaning that what may be hard to travel on is still rich in soil and pasture.

4. The first known inhabitants were the Belgae, who spread far across Wiltshire and the inner parts of Hampshire. They came from Germany and brought their customs with them.

5. The general produce includes corn and cattle, produced in such abundance that it rivals other counties. The region is rich in lead, especially at places like Mendip Hills, which yield excellent lead for export. There are also diamonds at St. Vincent’s Rock, which shine so brightly they could match real diamonds.

6. The county is famous for its hot baths, especially Bath, which the Romans called Aquae Solis (“Waters of the Sun”). The baths are used to heal various illnesses due to the mineral and sulfur-rich springs. Roman inscriptions and ancient images have been found on the walls of the baths.

7. The town of Wells is also ancient, known for its church dedicated to St. Andrew and the Fountain Church, built by King Ina.

8. Somerset has been the site of many battles. In 986, Portlock was attacked by Danes. Notable battles happened at Pen, North Cadbury, Bridgewater, and Cadbury, where King Arthur is said to have defeated Saxons and Danes. Some believe he was buried in Avalon, now Glastonbury.

9. Many religious sites are found here, including Black Chanons of Barlich, Abelstan’s monastery, and Glastonbury Abbey, said to be founded by Joseph of Arimathea.

10. Camelot, the legendary site of King Arthur’s castle, is believed by some to be in this region, possibly Cadbury Castle. When the Normans came, they made it a borough with 107 burgesses. Remains of Roman and Arthurian structures are often found here.

The county is divided into 42 Hundreds (administrative divisions), with 36 market towns, four castles, and 385 parishes. It plays a key role in trade, governance, and defense.